Does the kit contain backing blades?
nope. i could probably fab something up, but meh... it's literally all Karmann Ghia parts, don't think those had a backing plate ether. but i could be wrong.
drivers side is done (aside from being bled)
also installed the camber kit
alright, passenger side done. need to grind a frog hair off the caliper for wheel clearance (it clears but is to close for comfort)
got the camber in the ballpark. according to the digital angel finder i barrowed form work the car is jacked up level so i just put the angel finder the brake disc and turned the bolds until i had 89.9 degrees which means i have .1 degree of negative camber at full droop. (i will check it again with the car on the ground, but not today)
also broke out the tape measure and checked the toe. it's almost 2" toe in. so yeah... going to have to do something about that. not looking forward to that.
still have to put the passenger side rear brake back together. check the wheel cylinder one last time. torque the drum nut, adjust the brakes, and then bleed the whole system. not looking forward to that ether.
should probably change the oil. i still have the break in oil in it. which reminds me i need to buy oil. i have the zink additive already.
Bug-In is June 18th. i might just make it
Super_Randy wrote:
Bug-In is June 18th. i might just make it
Fingers crossed for you man.
schwim wrote:
Super_Randy wrote:
Bug-In is June 18th. i might just make it
Fingers crossed for you man.
alright, i put the passenger side rear brake back together and adjusted both sides yesterday after work.
and today i got front toe "set", or at least better than it was. iv got a hair over a 1/16th of an inch of toe in with the car on jack stands. don't have the capability of checking it (or i should say adjusting it) on the ground at the moment. steering wheel is relatively straight. not sure i can get it any better, one tie rod is bent and the other i had to pop the ball joint out of the spindle cause i couldn't get the damn jamb nut loose cause rust. all that stuff is getting replaced sooner than later anyways. i want to go through the entire front end. maybe end of summer or something. idk. next project is going to be the seats.
tomorrow ill see about bleeding the brakes, i actually remembered to pick up some brake fluid yesterday. after that i think it's driveable :shock:
alright brakes appear to be bled. ill check them again in a few hours. but as of right now im not getting any air out of the bleeders and all 4 wheels lock up (when spun by hand) when you press the peddle. iv got maybe an inch of free play in the peddle then you can feel the peddle doing something, then they hit a wall. which is about how i remember the peddle being with 4 wheel drums when i was driving it 10 years ago.
edit:
iv moved on to random BS. vacuumed out the interior, "fixed" the glovebox door and dash pad around the glovebox door (the glovebox door actually works now). am now straighten out the license plate frame and putting the current registration sticker on the license plate. about to attempt replacing the center vent in the dash.
alright, in a last minute very late afternoon/early evening thrash, iv now got the car on the ground. and have driven it back and fourth in the driveway in the backyard (roughly 8 feet). tomorrow i drive it!
That's fantastic news, man! Video please!
schwim wrote:
That's fantastic news, man! Video please!
x2 8-)
no video, or pic's. i hit the gas station and was going to snap a pic with my phone but as i was finishing pumping the station was getting kinda busy and i didn't want to be "that guy". no video cause i can't film and shift at the same time. everything seemed to go ok, accept for the part where it dropped RPM and died leaving a red light. i had to push it to another gas station and fiddle with it. not sure exactly what caused it, but it did fire up again after about 5 minutes.
it's got a weird "knocking" sound coming out of the back somewhere. i can only compare it to the time my generator pully came loose, but it's tight. i even pulled over once to check it. im wondering if the bearings in the generator are going bad. which means it's time for an alternator.
im going to let it cool down, then ill go out there and check to see if anything's loose. then probably drive it around again. put another 10 or so miles on it.
alright took it for another spin, not driving it to work tomorrow. when the engine is up to temp and it has to sit at idle for any length of time (about 10 seconds+) it doesn't want to pull away. i can hit the gas, the RPM will come to up 14-1500 then it falls on it's face bogs and wants to die. it died on me twice. luckily it refired after cranking it for about 7 seconds. when cranking after that it starts off sluggish, then the starter seems to shift into second gear and it wants to fire but doesn't want to idle until i blip the throttle a few times. by the end of my drive (about 30 minutes) i was having to pull away from a stop at about 3000 RPM after reving it a few times to "clear it out". so i need to figure out wtf is going on. right now im thinking carb issue.
Great news that "Bumblebee" (you hate this nick I guess :lol:) is back on the road again after so many years! 8-)
Although these (expected) initial hiccups suck. :?
And yes your report sounds like a carb and/or fuel issue most likely.
Just a few catchwords that crossed my mind:
fuel pressure, float level, foreign objects, cold start thingy, adjustment screws (again?), vacuum leak, ignition setup...
May be you have another carb at hand for a test?
Good luck man! ;)
well the carb sat in the garage for 9 years and all i did was look at it and then bolt it on. it's highly possible that it's got a clog somewhere.
iv been thinking about it. i need to check the idle cut off thingy on the side of the carb (iv had hot running issues with that before). it's possible diaphragms have dried out as well. also wondering if the jetting is bad. need to check the spark plugs.
even though it runs, its still not idling 100% right. it wants to idle at about 750 - 800RPM which is a little low (should be up at 850 to 900). the carb is still jetted for a stock 1600 and now i's got a 1600 with SCAT C20 cam so i would think it needs more fuel :?
im thinking i need to clean the snot out of it and throw a rebuild kit at it as well as some bigger jets. i think i have jets that are one size up (?) i have to look.
ok i did some fiddling after work today.
pulled the idle solenoid. it's sloppy and doesn't seem to have a whole lot of range of movement, ill test it at work tomorrow. hook it up to the test panel for a while, see if it holds. iv got a couple more, one that's practically new, but couldn't find it. ill look again tomorrow maybe.
pulled the pilot jet and found that it was damaged. looks like it was put in to tight and got squished. the holes were somewhat closed and noticeably elongated. it was supposed to be a 60, but the holes in my 55 were visibly bigger so i put the 55 in.
then i pulled the plug in the float and top of the carb off and pulled the main jet out. best way i can explain it, it looked like it had carbon build up on it. couldn't read the size but i threw in a clean 127.
then i pulled the air correction jet/emulsion tube, looked at confused. looked at my donor from my OG German carb, they looked the same. but the German one had nicer looking holes so i shot some carb cleaner through it and installed it.
haven't tried testing it yet. don't want to mess with it until i test or replace the idle solenoid.
anyone know how hot an idle solenoid is supposed to get?
That sounds like an internal short to me. It's just an electromagnet and shouldn't get very hot at all. At least not any that I've been around.
i hooked them to the test panel at work. they both work. but both get very hot after about 15 minutes. like don't touch them for more than a few seconds hot. im assuming they would cool down if screwed into an aluminum carb. sense the carb body would be acting like a heatsink.
oddly enough the newer and probably in better condition of the 2 gets hotter. but it also seems to have about a 1/16 more of travel. so idk wtf. probably just going to give that one a shot.
also anyone know i they're a pipe thread or if i can just stick a bold in the hole and not run one. which brings up the question, what size and thread are they?
to answer my own question. M10-1.0
its not making Bug-In tomorrow. the low idle issue has actually gotten worse. iv also noticed that volt gauge is now reading under 12v at any RPM under about 1200. and even when reved up to over 3000 is barely over 12v. so im pretty sure my generator is giving up the ghost (it's also intermittently makes a "scrubbing" sound). i have plans to install an alternator anyways, and i even already have one (hopefully it's good). but i don't have a stand for it.
also decided screw it, i might as well throw a rebuilt kit at the carb. so much for laziness huh?
Super_Randy wrote:
its not making Bug-In tomorrow...
That's a bummer! :(
Super_Randy wrote:
... the low idle issue has actually gotten worse ... i might as well throw a rebuilt kit at the carb...
In the pic below I noticed that the little hole in the throttle flap is soldered shut.
It seems this carb was (heavily) modified. May be to work better with a 009.
Some info here. No idea if the stuff provided there is useful. I'm no 34 PICT expert and never liked this carb.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=365762
Super_Randy wrote:
filling in the hole is a trick to make the carb work with an 009 distributor. that hole is basically a vacuum leak to an 009. but im not running an 009 anymore, so i wonder... you might be an accidental genus. im still throwing a rebuild kit at it and ill make sure nothings clogged, but i wonder if i need to open that hole back up?
alright, iv done some testing. pretty sure the generator is dyeing a slow death.
i charged the battery this morning, it was down to 12.2 volts. which i guess isn't really low, but i charged it for an hour and a half or so anyway, got it back to 12.6 volts which if memory serves me is what a battery is supposed to be "at rest".
got the car started and managed to make it hold about 800 - 900rpm and reset the timing (i had screwed that up a couple weeks ago screwing with it).
tested the powering coming off the generator with a multimeter and low and behold, it maxed out at under 13.
carb cleaner, solvent (safety kleen), carb rebuild kit and fuel filter acquired. garage conditions pending (if it's humid AF, im probably not getting much done) ill rebuild the carb over the weekend. then maybe, just maybe that sumbitch will take a tune.
and if it doesn't, i guess i won't be redoing the seats, ill be buying duel 40 IDF's. cause i have until the end of October to make it to drag day.
