the never ending project. 71 super build

Super_Randy wrote:

... is yours an 1/8 nitro? im not real familiar with Graupner.

Yes 1/8 nitro. It has a 3.5ccm O.S. MAX engine - man that thing was fast!

Here's a quote from the interweb about the Graupner Impuls kit (mine is a 1998 Impuls Sport 4WD):

It's a HoBao Pirate M1. Rebranded by Graupner (Impuls 2000 2 wheel drive, Impuls 2000 4 wheel drive and Impuls 4000 4 wheel drive).
Also rebranded as T2M Pirate M1, Ofna Pirate and Kyosho Prestige.
The Monster Pirate, or Pirate MT Sport, was the monster truck version of the buggy.

Combed through the archives and found this...
Back in '87 my brother and I ran these Kyosho electric buggies:

I have an RC buggy like the black on in the picture in the last post and an older RC speed boat that have lasted for years.

Both are well used and my buggy's knobby tires are now slicks..

ok makes sense. the HoBao cars were sold in the US under the Ofna brand name until a couple years ago. they are now HoBao, i wasn't super familiar with them back then, i only remember the monster pirate, ultra worlds 2 and MBX (not sure how many of those names will carry over)

the 1/10 Kyosho tomahawk you can buy new, Kyosho re-released it a couple years ago. interchangeable parts should be available.

Super_Randy wrote:

the 1/10 Kyosho tomahawk you can buy new, Kyosho re-released it a couple years ago. interchangeable parts should be available.

Cool! Wasn't aware of that. We sold ours years ago.
Thanks for the heads-up! The Tomahawk will most likely become a birthday present for my godson!

ok so i picked up some parts. nothing that will get it running, but parts none the less. german door seals, WCM tail light seals, WCM cal-look window rubber, and the thing im most stoked about, running board mats. and if it wasn't almost 100 degrees in my garage id have pic's. and if it wasn't 86 degrees with miserable humidity id be taking my running boards off right now.

passenger side running board is off and in far worse condition than i thought. its gong to take some fixing before i can put the new mat on.
drivers side, im afraid to look, it should be better but im guessing not much.

rust sucks.

Rust is always a bummer, hope its not too bad..

For a quick fix use a Rust Converter spray on it and then paint over that with a rust sealing POR-15 type paint.

lol. minions are awesome

and sense im here i might as well post a pic- less update on the bug.
i changed one door seal before getting pissed at the sun and the humidity. german door seals are a very snug fit and seal super good. well worth the extra money. and the running boards are completely disassembled, im weighing options (ok, procrastinating) i think im just going to fiberglass the holes, treat it like body work, paint them, reassemble and install. they're on the back burner for the time being, im planing on going to bug-in in October, ill hit the swap meet, see if i can't find a better set of original german boards that need some love.
i have motivation to buy parts, im just lacking motivation to go out and install those parts...

Hey Randy,

If you can buy POR-Patch it works great to fill in holes where it doesn't need to look perfect.
This stuff drys so hard it is difficult to sand down and when you use some mesh cloth and squish the POR-Patch into the mesh just like you do fiber glass it makes a great repair.

Just get it flat as you want it on the repair before it drys and wear disposable rubber gloves for sure.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-POR-Patch_p_53.html

that would work for the drivers side and the small hole on the passenger side, but, well ill try to post a pic of the passenger side this weekend. most people (anyone in there right mind) would just replace it. but im a cheap bastard that likes to do things the hard way so we'll see what happens.

well in the name of meaningless progress, the old dried out cracked to hell tail light seals are gone and the new West Coast Metric tail light seals are on. hey that kinda rhymes. nicer fit and finish compared to the cheapies i had on there.
pain of stiff neck pending i might do the other door seal today to.

running boards... haven't touched them. still haven't even taken pic's of what im dealing with. at the rate im going im probably going to be looking for some decent replacements in the swap meet at Bug-In in October.

edit: ok, passenger door seal is on, it was easier than the drivers door for whatever reason. got that factory vacuum action going on, hard to close the doors without rolling a window down.
also realized that if i go pickup some por15 i can put the new cal look windshield rubber in. and possibly the quarter window on the drivers side. so i guess that's next (?)

Super_Randy wrote:

... got that factory vacuum action going on, hard to close the doors without rolling a window down...

Yeah, even the cabin venting system does not help...
At least the rear quarter moon vents help to blow out a candle when closing the door... :roll:

Leaving the quarter window ajar does the trick for me.
By the way I wonder if a bug would make a cool aquarium?? :)
Although these fish tanks bore me to death... :lol:

so i was just cleaning up the garage.  recently got rid of some junk and was reorganizing.  found a couple of cylinder heads i didn't know i had!
i had a spare set of heads with the part number 113.101.375A. one of which has a couple broken exhaust studs. knowing the bottom end is well worn, rather than mess with it i lost interest.
well guess what. one of the heads i just found, part # 113.101.375A. and it seems to be in good shape.
needless to say, im bolting that sucker on there! i just might have an update to this dead thread by the end of the weekend

Fingers crossed!

well it resembles an engine again. got the other head on. got the fan shroud, generator, intake manifold and carb on. and that's when things took a turn for the worse. the adapters i use on the engine stand broke. so now the engine is on a furniture dolly on the floor. managed to not drop the engine on the floor, but the build is now going to kill my back until i can reinvent the wheel and get it back on the stand. i have ideas, we'll see what happens. progress has been made.

and lets see what everyone's .02 cents is on this. when i took the clutch off it was covered in a fine layer of oil. i wondered why the damn thing slipped so bad and now i know. but idk where the hell the oil came from. rear seal should be good, i put a fresh seal in it when i slapped the engine together about 8 years ago and its slipped sense day one.
any ideas on why the clutch is covered in oil?

It seems the project is gaining some momentum again. That's great!

Regarding the oil-fouled clutch there are a few possible malefactors IMHO:

• leaky engine oil seal or camshaft sealing cap
  

• leaky transmission oil seal
  

-over greased throw out bearing / trow out mechanism

• over greased starter motor drive gear
  

Hope this helps to soften the frown... :)

Maddel thought of the lion's share of them but I've also seen a cracked case cause oil in the bellhousing space.

the trans seal makes sense. its probably original. the car has gone without engine for long periods of time and it's been exposed and may have dried out or something. ill have to inspect that before putting the engine in.

iv thought about a crack in the case before. it leaks pretty good, but only after it's been driven. you have to get the engine up to temp and get the oil flowing. drive 5 miles to work and it'll leak several drops the size of nickles or bigger. let it sit for a week and it might have a drop the size of a dime under it.

i looked at it again this morning and just the inside of the clutch is oily. the outside of the flywheel is dry, the outside of the clutch is dry

Super_Randy wrote:

iv thought about a crack in the case before. it leaks pretty good, but only after it's been driven. you have to get the engine up to temp and get the oil flowing. drive 5 miles to work and it'll leak several drops the size of nickles or bigger. let it sit for a week and it might have a drop the size of a dime under it...

You're talking about engine oil here I guess - you may have a leaky transmission plus a leaky crankcase.
To shed some light on the matter it may be a good idea to bite the bullet and remove the flywheel (inspect that O-ring too) as well as the throw out bearing to check the crankcase and the transmission for leaks.

Super_Randy wrote:

i looked at it again this morning and just the inside of the clutch is oily. the outside of the flywheel is dry, the outside of the clutch is dry

Hmmm... A few keywords: over greased gland nut needle bearing , faulty or missing flywheel O-ring, transmission seal.

thinking about it, the o-ring bay be shot. i don't remember replacing it...

in past news, pic's of what iv got done
first the broken engine stand addapters

and then the engine

Getting ready to drop it in?

it needs a few more things, but its close

ok, in the moving in the right direction category, my dad made me some new adapters, this time out of 1/4" in steel (old ones were 1/4" aluminum. that's 6.35mm for you metric users). i think the bolts will snap before these things do. so it's going back on the stand this weekend.

it has also occurred to me that the gas in the tank (i don't even remember how much) has to be bad at this point. the tires don't hold air, and the battery is dead. the battery ill throw on the charger tomorrow, it should still be good. its been dead for less than a year and it was a new battery. tires... no idea. guess ill have to buy new ones and have them mounted and balanced.
and the gates broken so no matter what its stuck in the backyard.

Unless it's non-ethenol, a year will turn it to goop. I've gotten batteries sitting for more than a year to take a charge, so fingers crossed you're good on that front.