the never ending project. 71 super build

[Super_Randy]

just a minor update.
just put the car on jackstands. the wheels still spin free (a little dragging on the right rear, but non enough for me to be concerned) the peddle still feels like it should, and nothing appears to be leaking. so i think the breaks are good to go(still might go ahead and crack the bleeders just for good measure). hopefully this next week ill pick up tires. and maybe a clutch, idk we'll see how froggy im feeling.

currently trying to figure out what carbs i want. thinking of just using duel solex's cause they're cheaper, but im tired of being a cheapskate and i really want 40IDF's. this has me looking into carb linkages, coil mounts, and distributors, fuel pumps and regulators, and fuel line routing.


and for what it's worth, jacking up a lowered bug with flat tires is a pain in the ass!

[Maddel]

... the peddle still feels like it should, and nothing appears to be leaking. so i think the breaks are good to go ...

Care for some fresh brake fluid?
I change it on my Bug every two years.

[Super_Randy]

wanting new fluid and wanting to do the work required for new fluid are 2 different things
plus the stock drums are temporary at this point. it'll be getting 4 wheel disc probably sometime next year and i can flush the system then.

don't you have to change the brake fluid in Germany every few years to pass inspection? heard that somewhere, not sure if it's true or not.

in the ever continuing progress. iv been cleaning and polishing the wheels. it's been at least 6 years sense i did that last. they're rustier than i thought, but are cleaning up pretty good with Turtle Wax and aluminum foil. maybe ill post a pic later.

edit:
a crappy cellphone pic of the wheels. the one on the right the worst offender and came out decent. i did get lazy and didn't clean the grease out of the hubs, but whatever, grease prevents rust and its hidden behind a hub cap. ...and i still have to polish... ...after find them...

[Maddel]

wanting new fluid and wanting to do the work required for new fluid are 2 different things

Duh! Tell me about it!! I hate brake fluid!

don't you have to change the brake fluid in Germany every few years to pass inspection?

No they don't check the moisture content in Germany.
They do in Austria and if it exceeds a specific threshold value the car fails the inspection AFAIK.

iv been cleaning and polishing the wheels. it's been at least 6 years sense i did that last. they're rustier than i thought, but are cleaning up pretty good with Turtle Wax and aluminum foil.

Looking good!

[Super_Randy]

soooo.... my long block is ready for pick up. so ill be knocking out of work a bit early hopefully Monday to go get it


and i still haven't bought tires...

also i need to remember to see about buying a clutch when i pick up the engine.

[Super_Randy]

[schwim]

Wow, what an exciting stage of your build! We need more pics and info

[Super_Randy]

probably won't have any pic's until this weekend. it's one of the zero mile long blocks form SCAT you see advertised in Hot VW's. C20 cam, 1.1:1 rockers. going to be running stock carb for now, will put 40 IDF's on it sometime early next year. nothing fancy, just wanted something dead nuts reliable with a little more power than stock. although given the condition of my last engine it'll probably feel like a race car


edit. ok, you talked me into opening it up


then i took a stab at slapping on some tin work and crank pully (need to strip the paint or powder coat off the inside of the pully)

[Maddel]

need to strip the paint or powder coat off the inside of the pully

STANDARD DIAMETER HARD ANODIZED LASER-ENGRAVED SCAT BILLET VW DEGREE PULLEY

So there should be no paint or powder coat...

I'm not a fan of sanding these parts. Check the woodruff key and compare the oil thread against a stock pulley (if at hand).
Warming up the hub a bit may help. The pulley should slide on the crank by hand far enough for the bolt to reach the threads.
Then tighten the bolt... It should push the pulley down with little effort.
A Samba thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=701249
There may be additional Samba topics dealing with aftermarket pulley problems.

A puller is needed to remove the pulley in either case stock or aftermarket.


By the way... I tried a similar SCAT pulley and it's oil thread was crap.

[Super_Randy]

seems kinda thick for anodizing. all i did was take a wire wheel in a dremel and clean it out. it went from not wanting to go on at all, to going on deep enough to "tap" into place with a rubber mallet until the bolt could be threaded. the woodruff key fit fine, it's a snug slip fit.
idk, that's how i remember my original German pully fitting my old engine.