1977 Super Beetle Convertible; Alpine White

Hi everyone,

I am new here, my father just picked up a '77 Vert. We were going over it and we're hoping to get a understanding of how it left the factory. The serial number is a 157 2.... so that checks out. The paint code sticker is still intact on the strut tower and shows alpinwoXX and L90B. The part that I don't understand is that the listings I see only show that colour with a something called a S723 model, but for that they list a interior colour of OPAL white but his is a burgundy. The top is also currently black, the dash has some wood inserts on it.

Anyways, I was wondering how to get this all priced together?

I used this link to tie exterior paint code to interior colour and model:

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/colors/77vert.htm

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Hey there Super!

Have you considered a birth certificate? Since our type 1's didn't come with M-codes like our brethren buses, a certificate is our best window into how our cars rolled off the factory floor.

http://automuseum.volkswagen.de/en/certificates-and-data-sheets.html

With the popularity of the verts, it's quite likely it's been fixed up with different parts, fabrics and colors over the years. You may find original fabric underneath the current but there's no way to know that the seats are original to the car.

I'd love to see some pics of your ride if you have time to share!

Yes I was thinking of doing that as my research eventually led me in that direction.

I am just trying to determine what information is necessary to provide. Currently I have the VIN and Engine serial number.

The application asks for the model. Is this just 1977 Super Beetle Convertible or is it something else?

It was on the road when purchased but in need of care; always remember to check under the bra we only ended up with half a hood :)

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Gorgeous ride!

superseven wrote:

The application asks for the model. Is this just 1977 Super Beetle Convertible or is it something else?

All Supers from '73-80 are designated as the model 1303. You can tell them apart from earlier models by their curved windshield.

You don't have to provide this on the birth certificate order form but for your information, if a 1303 came with the 1192cc engine, it was the 1303A, if it came with the 1584cc, it was the 1303S and if it came with the 1283cc, it was just the 1303.

superseven wrote:

It was on the road when purchased but in need of care; always remember to check under the bra we only ended up with half a hood :)

Haha, I've come across a lot of hidden treasures by previous owners but a bug bra hiding a missing portion of hood is a new one!

It is more of a joke; the hood might of well not been there almost completely rusted out below the bra line.

Thanks for the information from what I can tell it is a 1584cc engine as it has a AJ code and is fuel injected. So I am guessing we are looking at a 1303S

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superseven wrote:

It is more of a joke; the hood might of well not been there almost completely rusted out below the bra line.

I understand what you're saying and I feel your pain. My 59 rear wheel arch and quarter, which was completely hidden by bondo:

Yes I haven't seen my dads car in a few days but it definitely has its share of rust, I am hoping to get some photos to share once he has things stripped down.

Are you still working on the 59 or is it done?

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Still working on it although it's admittedly been a while. The chassis is in my basement and the body is hanging out next to the house waiting for me to weld some replacement panels into it:

The chassis looks great! Any tips on what to do when splitting the chassis from the frame? My dad has stripped the interior and he is currently assessing what it needs to start to find parts. He is looking to separate the two but we are unsure of a few things.

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Separating a VW from it's chassis is super simple but you have to take some extra precautions when it's a convertible and even more when it's got some structural rot.

Before you remove the body, you need to install bracing to keep the body from flexing, shifting or misaligning while it's away from the pan. In a convertible, the pan is what keeps your door openings from deforming to the point that your doors no longer close properly.

Here's an example of a minimal bracing application. If you don't have the body in a jig, I would also suggest bracing across from one side to the other in both an X fashion as well as straight across.

To actually remove the body from the pan, follow this write up written expressly for the Super Beetle: http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/jun.htm

Body removal takes about half a day if you're not familiar with the process. It's an incredibly simple affair compared to other vehicles.

Alright thanks for the info; I have discussed with my dad and we are planning how we will do this.

Have you seen anything on the web that covers making a good set of braces. We figure we can fabricate a similar solution to the ones shown in the door. We are just trying to sort out where would be the best place to place cross braces; our preference would be to use bolted tie down points but we could tac weld in if necessary.

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I think you're going to find that the most natural placement for the cross piece that the body will sit on is going to be where the wheels sit. The body is naturally recessed at those points vertically and helps you keep the body stable.

On mine, I crossed at those two points and it's super stable. The body has never tried to shift in spite of all the hammering and cutting that's been done to it. You can of course weld or bolt at those points to increase rigidity.