Yak about stuff. Just stuff.
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July 2010

Checking the static ignition timing - godson is giving me a hand...

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October 2010

Experienced clutch grabbing and chatter for some time and finally decided to get the engine out...

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Due to the fact that there's no oil cooler inside, the fan housing can be removed with the engine still in the car.
Note the burned engine bay seal where it touched the "performance" header.

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Looked not too bad after 20 years...

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Another downside of running a "performance" header - it heats up your rear apron quite a bit...

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There it is...

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So instead of supplementing the stock oil cooler, you used it's ports to run only a remote cooler. Did that work well for you? Did you have a fan to force air through it or was it passive?

Sorry if these things have been answered already. I've got a terrible memory :)
maybe the cooler under the front apron? if that's it i wouldn't think a fan would be needed. interesting set up, never seen that done. in my 100 degree neck of the desert we run stock coolers with additional coolers with fans :shock:

in other news, are those kadron carbs? if so, what manifolds/throttle linkage is that? looks like a clean set up.

also you look like my friend Jeff. no joke dude you could pass for at least his older brother. maybe even for him 10 years in the future
just because it's a bad idea, doesn't mean it wont be a good time
schwim wrote: So instead of supplementing the stock oil cooler, you used it's ports to run only a remote cooler. Did that work well for you? Did you have a fan to force air through it or was it passive?...
An attempt to describe how the "Riechert" full flow oil cooling system works...

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The stock oil cooler is replaced by a thermostat (the rectangular thingy in the first two pics above) which controls the oil flow to the front oil cooler.
To enable the thermostat to do so it's necessary to use a second spring with the original oil pressure relief valve (#1 in the stock lubrication diagram above).
This will force the relief valve to stay closed even with cold engine oil (high oil pressure).
Hence the oil has to pass the thermostat at every given operating temperature or pressure.

If the oil temperature is below approx. 85°C (185°F) the thermostat will bypass the front oil cooler.
The oil will return directly from the thermostat back into the engine case.

Once the oil warms up above 85°C (185°F) the thermostat starts to open the full flow circuit.
The oil now flows through the in line filter under the right front fender and then on through the front oil cooler and finally back into the engine case via the thermostat.

    Benefits:
  • The system works with the stock oil pump.
  • No need to use a fan with the front oil cooler.
  • It's relatively easy to install without major modifications.
  • No need to alter the engine case.
  • The fan housing's original doghouse duct is closed with a bolt on tin - more air is available for head and cylinder cooling.
  • The engine oil volume is increased.

The highest oil temperatures I ever experienced were about 100°C (212°F) at protracted bumper to bumper city traffic
and approx. 115°C (239°F) during excessive full throttle "Autobahn" speeding.
Ambient temperatures were about 30°C (86°F) in both cases.
The maximum oil temp while cruising normal (country) roads with occasional speeds up to 130 kph (80 mph) is about 90°C (194°F).
Note: my engine is only mildly tuned and I'm trying to avoid long haul high revs.

So oil temperature depends on the engine set up, the size of the front oil cooler and your foot on the gas pedal. :D
Talking about public street use here of course. Road Racing, Rally, Baja, Dune etc. may require different set ups...



Super_Randy wrote: ...are those kadron carbs? if so, what manifolds/throttle linkage is that? looks like a clean set up.
These are Solex 34 PCI carbs. Back in the day they were used on NSU Prinz and BMW 700 engines.

The manifolds and throttle linkage are made by "Riechert".
You are right it's a super clean, simple and smart set up. I love it! 8-)
I have no idea if the manifolds will fit Kardons.
Should I take the measurements of the manifold's?

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Super_Randy wrote: ...also you look like my friend Jeff. no joke dude you could pass for at least his older brother. maybe even for him 10 years in the future
Well... Back in the 1850s some of my ancestors left Germany for America... :o :lol:
if those carbs are 34's i doubt kadrons will fit, cause kadrons are 40's, so im willing to bet the flange is a different size.
just because it's a bad idea, doesn't mean it wont be a good time
October/November 2010

Engine on the bench...

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What to expect behind that pressure plate?

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Ahhh, here we go... the reason for the grabbing/chattering clutch:
flywheel, friction disk and pressure plate surfaces were contaminated with resinified/gummy oil or grease...

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Engine tin, pulley and flywheel removed...

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The main seal seems to be ok but the camshaft plug is a little bit leaky. Since the case has to be split to fix this and
the leak was not that severe I bit the bullet and decided to leave it like it is for the time being.

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I had no clue if that gearbox was removed ever - I never did it at least - high time for changing the mounts...

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Wow - quite a bit of oil and grease inside the bell housing.
It looks like I applied to much grease to the starter gear back in the day. :roll:
And a puddle of oil at the bottom - most likely the main shaft seal is toast.

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There it is...

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The opportunity arises to repaint the frame horns...

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Transmission on the bench...

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Here we go: the leaky seal...

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Transmission well cleaned...

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Main shaft seal removed...

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And a new one pressed in...

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March 2011

Started to strip the rear end...

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The remains of the burnt and brittle engine bay seals...

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A sore sight...

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Some drastic action - passed the point of no return...

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Perforation...

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Cutout!

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After some grinding - getting closer...

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Finally some provisional primer applied.
All the initial misgivings had vanished - I like that stock look much better...

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huh, most people shave those. you add them back :shock:
just because it's a bad idea, doesn't mean it wont be a good time
April 2011

More scraping, grinding and sanding...

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After "some more" wire wheel brushing and sanding a sealer based on moisture curing polyurethanes was applied
followed by a first layer of anti rust primer...

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Second layer of primer (base coat)...

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Engine bay primed...

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Frame horns sanded and partly primed...

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